Coastal Blue Crochet Bralette Free Crochet Pattern

That gorgeous skein of cotton yarn in your stash? The one you keep saving for “something special”? This is that something. The Coastal Blue Crochet Bralette mixes airy mesh cups, shiny silver ring lacing, and handmade tassels into one stunning piece. And here’s the kicker — it looks way harder than it actually is. Fair warning, though: this pattern sits at a confident intermediate level, so it’s not your first-ever project. But if you’ve got a few finishes under your belt, grab that yarn and let’s make something gorgeous.

What You’re Actually Making

This lace-up halter bralette has two triangular mesh cups joined at the center, a firm underbust band, silver ring details on each side, braided tie cords, and soft tassels at the ends. The flow is simple once it clicks: make both cups from the top point downward, join them with an underbust band, add the decorative rings along each side, then finish with corded ties and tassels.

The adjustable tie closures mean this pattern fits a range of sizes. As written, it’s an S/M bralette with an adjustable underbust fit of about 30 to 36 inches (76 to 91.5 cm), depending on how tightly you lace the sides. Each cup base measures about 7.25 inches (18.5 cm), and the cup height after edging is roughly 6.5 inches (16.5 cm).

Time estimate? Plan for 6 to 8 relaxed hours of crocheting, plus blocking and drying time. Pop on a show and you’ll be done before you know it.

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Gather Your Supplies First

Nothing kills crochet momentum like hunting for a hook mid-row. Gather everything before you start.

Yarn Suggestions

This pattern works beautifully with smooth cotton or cotton-blend DK yarn. A few solid options:

• A smooth cotton DK that holds mesh stitches clearly
• A cotton-blend DK with a bit of body but not much stretch
• Any DK-weight cotton you already love working with

Substitution tip: Choose a yarn that holds mesh stitches clearly and doesn’t grow too much when blocked. Avoid very stretchy yarns unless you swatch carefully first. IMO, cotton is the way to go here — it keeps those mesh windows crisp.

Gauge Is Not Optional (Sorry!)

Look, I know gauge swatches feel like homework. Do it anyway. If you skip this step, your cups may end up too big, too small, or just plain weird-shaped.

Single crochet (sc) gauge: 18 sc x 20 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) after light blocking

Mesh gauge: 6 mesh windows x 10 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)

Make a swatch, block it lightly, and measure. Match both stitch and row gauge before starting. If your gauge is off, size your hook up or down. Ten minutes of swatching saves hours of frogging. Trust me on this one.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

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This pattern uses US crochet terms. Working from UK terms? Remember that US single crochet (sc) equals UK double crochet (dc), and US double crochet (dc) equals UK treble.

A few techniques show up throughout the pattern. Read these before you begin so nothing surprises you mid-project.

Mesh Increase Row

Chain 1, work 2 single crochet (sc) in the first stitch, work mesh across the row, chain 1 and skip the stitch before the last stitch, then work 2 sc in the last stitch. Each mesh increase row adds 2 stitches to your total count.

Corded Chain

Chain the stated length. Working back along the chain, slip stitch (sl st) in the back bump of each chain. Fasten off, leaving tails for tassels. This creates a firm, rope-like cord that won’t stretch out.

Ring Join

Insert your hook through the metal ring and the next crochet edge stitch at the same time. Pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops. This anchors the ring with one sc and keeps it secure.

Tassel

Wrap yarn 14 times around a 3-inch (7.5 cm) piece of cardboard or similar object. Tie the top tightly, cut the lower loops, wrap a “neck” about 0.5 inch (1.25 cm) below the top, and trim the ends even.

Left-handed note: Work the same instructions. Your cups and lacing will mirror naturally. Place the first side ring set on whichever side feels most comfortable, then repeat on the opposite side.

Cup Instructions (Make 2)

Each cup works from the upper point downward. The chain 1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch. Keep your first and last 2 stitches firm so the cup edges don’t flare outward.

Cup Checkpoint

After Row 16, each cup should measure approximately 7 inches (18 cm) across the lower edge and 6.25 inches (16 cm) from the top point to the lower center before edging. If your measurements are way off, check your gauge before going further.

Cup Edging and Center Join

Work this edging around each cup before joining the band.

1. With the right side (RS) facing, sc evenly along the first side edge: work 2 sc around each row-end sc for 30 sc total.
2. At the top point: ch 3, sl st into the first ch to form a tiny tie loop, then work 1 sc in the same point.
3. Sc evenly down the second side edge: 30 sc total.
4. Work 33 sc across the lower edge, placing 1 sc in each Row 16 stitch. Join with a sl st to the first edging sc. Fasten off the first cup only.

Edging count per cup: 30 side sc + top loop + 30 side sc + 33 lower sc = 93 sc (not counting the ch-3 loop).

Place both cups side by side with lower edges aligned and top points leaning outward. The inner lower corners should touch at the center front.

Underbust Band

With the right side facing, join yarn at the outer lower corner of the left cup.

Band Checkpoint

The band should measure approximately 15 inches (38 cm) wide and 1.2 inches (3 cm) tall. The center bridge should sit flat without pulling the cups inward.

Side Ring Panels

This is where those silver rings come into play. They create the decorative lace-up detail on each side.

1. Mark three ring positions on each side edge: lower band corner, midpoint, and upper side cup edge.
2. For each ring: work a ring join over 3 adjacent edge stitches, ch 1, turn, and sc 3 back toward the body. Fasten off and weave in ends.
3. Repeat until there are 3 rings on each side, aligned vertically for cross lacing.

Cords, Lacing, and Tassels

Halter Tie

Make one corded chain 46 inches (117 cm) long. Thread it through both top loops and tie behind the neck. Add one tassel to each end.

Side Laces

Make two corded chains, each 30 inches (76 cm) long. Starting at the lower ring, weave each cord upward in a crisscross pattern through the three rings on one side. Tie a bow at the lower or middle ring. Add tassels to both ends.

Finishing Your Bralette

Almost done! Take your time with these final steps for a polished result. Weave in all ends, block your bralette gently, and check that the rings sit flat against the fabric. A quick hidden stitch behind each ring join keeps everything from twisting later. FYI, blocking makes a huge difference here — don’t skip it.

Care Instructions

Your handmade bralette deserves gentle care. Hand wash in cool water with a mild soap, gently squeeze out excess water (don’t wring!), and lay flat to dry. Skip the dryer entirely. Fold it rather than hanging it so the cords and tassels keep their shape.

Size Customization Tips

Want to adjust the fit? Here’s how:

• Bigger cup: Add 2 more increase rows before edging, keeping the same increase logic.
• Smaller cup: Stop 2 rows earlier and adjust the edging stitch count evenly.
• Wider band: Add extra band rows or lengthen the center bridge chain.
• Looser fit: Simply lace the sides less tightly — the ties do the work.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

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Final Thoughts

This Coastal Blue Crochet Bralette feels incredibly satisfying to finish. The mix of mesh texture, silver ring details, and handmade tassels creates a piece that looks like it came straight from a boutique. Wear it as a summer top, layer it under a cardigan, or pair it with high-waisted jeans for a festival-ready look. However you style it, you made this with your own hands — and that’s something special.

When you finish yours, share your photos and tag Sumara Patterns so we can admire your work. Save this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later, and drop a comment with your yarn choices and any tweaks you made. Happy crocheting!