Mustard Yellow Daisy Tote Free Crochet Pattern

Want a tote that looks like pure sunshine and actually holds its shape? This free mustard yellow daisy tote pattern delivers exactly that. Four bold daisy squares sit on a sturdy bucket body, finished with a simple handle and a cute tassel charm. Grab your hook—this one’s pure joy to make.

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Why This Daisy Tote Feels Like Instant Happiness

I designed this bag because I wanted something cheerful that still works as a real everyday tote. The mustard yellow base pops, the creamy daisy petals stand out, and the whole thing stays upright instead of flopping over like a sad plastic bag.

The finished size hits about 12 inches wide by 11 inches tall (not counting the handle). The base measures roughly 9 inches across. Perfect for market runs, library books, or your current WIP.

Skill level sits at intermediate. You need to know basic rounds, granny squares, and simple seaming. The puff stitch center and elongated petals look fancy, but they click once you try them a couple times.

Expect 18 to 24 hours total if you crochet at a normal intermediate pace. That covers the four daisy squares, bag body, handle, tassel, and lining.

Materials You’ll Actually Need

Cotton yarn makes or breaks this bag. Acrylic turns it into a floppy mess. Stick with cotton or a cotton blend for that crisp bucket shape.

Yarn

Main Color (MC): Mustard yellow worsted weight cotton, about 650 yards
Contrast Color (CC): Cream or off-white, same weight, about 200 yards

Good options that work great:

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Goldenrod and Ecru
Paintbox Yarns Simply DK Cotton in Mustard Yellow and Champagne White
We Are Knitters The Cotton in Mustard and Raw White

Hooks

US size G-6 (4.00 mm) for the daisy squares
US size H-8 (5.00 mm) for the bag body and handle

Notions

Tapestry needle
At least 4 stitch markers
½ yard cotton canvas or quilting cotton for lining
Sewing needle and matching thread
4–6 wooden beads (about ½ inch diameter)
Scissors, pins, iron, and pressing cloth

Gauge Check Before You Dive In

Gauge matters here. Too loose and the bag sags. Too tight and it turns stiff and tiny.

Bag body with H-8 hook in single crochet:

16 sc x 18 rounds = 4 inches square

Daisy square with G-6 hook, blocked:

One finished square = 5.5 inches square

Make a quick swatch. Switch hook size if needed.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

Here’s every stitch you’ll use, explained simply.

ch = chain

sl st = slip stitch

sc = single crochet

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

MR = magic ring

BLO = back loop only

inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)

pm = place marker

RS = right side

WS = wrong side

st(s) = stitch(es)

rep = repeat

sk = skip

sp = space

ch-sp = chain space

Special Stitches

Puff Stitch (ps): Insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop to about ½ inch height. Repeat twice more in the same stitch (7 loops total). Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops. Chain 1 to close.

Elongated Single Crochet Petal (escp): Insert hook into the space, yarn over, and pull up a loop to about ¾–1 inch height. Yarn over and pull through both loops. That long draw-up creates the raised petal look.

Standing Single Crochet (ssc): Start with a slip knot on the hook, insert into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops. Cleaner color joins.

Invisible Join: Cut yarn with a 6-inch tail. Thread the tapestry needle. Insert under both loops of the first stitch of the round from front to back. Then insert the needle back down through the center of the last stitch. Pull gently to match tension.

Quick Notes Before You Start Crocheting

Read these first. They save headaches later.

The bag body works in continuous rounds—no joining. Use a stitch marker and move it up every round.
Make the four daisy squares separately with the smaller hook, block them, then sew them on.
Two squares go on the front, two on the back, side by side.
Change colors by working the last yarn over of the old color with the new color.
Stitch counts sit in parentheses at the end of each round.
Work all rounds with the right side facing unless the pattern says otherwise.

Section 1: Bag Base

The base is a flat circle. Worked in joined rounds with turning chains for a firm bottom.

With MC and H-8 hook, make a magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as st), work 8 sc into the magic ring, sl st to first sc to join, pull ring closed. (8 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, turn. Working into the WS, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join. (16 sc)

Round 3: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) around, sl st to first sc to join. (24 sc)

Round 4: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (32 sc)

Round 5: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (40 sc)

Round 6: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (48 sc)

Round 7: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (56 sc)

Round 8: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (64 sc)

Round 9: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (72 sc)

Round 10: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (80 sc)

Round 11: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (88 sc)

Do not fasten off.

Checkpoint: Your base should measure about 9 inches across when lightly blocked. If it cups up, tension is too tight. If it ruffles, too loose.

Section 2: Bag Body (Side Walls)

Now we build the walls straight up. This creates the classic bucket shape.

Continue with MC and H-8 hook. At the end of Round 11, do NOT turn.

Round 12 (Transition Round): Ch 1, do not turn. Working in BLO of each stitch around, sc in each st around. Do not join. Place marker in first st. (88 sc)

Working in the back loop only creates that clean fold line between base and walls.

Rounds 13 through 38: Sc in each st around, working through both loops. Move marker up each round. (88 sc each round)

That’s 26 rounds of plain single crochet. Walls should measure about 9.5 inches tall from the fold line.

Checkpoint: After Round 38, the bag body should sit about 9.5 inches tall and roughly 12 inches wide when laid flat.

Round 39 (Handle Attachment Prep): Sc in next 22 sts, pm for handle left attachment point, sc in next 44 sts, pm for handle right attachment point, sc in next 22 sts. (88 sc)

Your two handle markers should sit directly opposite each other.

Rounds 40 and 41: Sc in each st around. (88 sc each round)

At end of Round 41, sl st to next st, fasten off. Weave in ends.

Section 3: Daisy Granny Square (Make 4)

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These are the stars of the show. Each one has a puff stitch center, raised petals, and a granny border that turns the circle into a square.

With G-6 hook and CC (cream).

Daisy Center

Round 1: With MC, make a magic ring. Ch 2 (does not count as st), work 10 hdc into ring, sl st to first hdc to join, pull ring closed. (10 hdc)

Round 2: Ch 1, (ps in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st) 5 times, sl st to top of first ps to join. (5 ps, 5 ch-1 sps)

Fasten off MC. The center medallion should measure about 1 inch across.

Daisy Petals

Join CC into the center ring opening.

Round 3: For each of the 5 ch-1 spaces between puffs, work the following petal cluster: Insert hook into center ring, work 1 escp. Repeat twice more so you have 3 elongated sc going into the center ring for that petal cluster. Sl st into the next ch-1 space. Rep for all 5 petal clusters around. Sl st to base of first escp to join. (15 escp total, 5 petal clusters of 3 each)

Fasten off CC.

Outer Petal Round

Rejoin CC with a standing sc at the tip of any petal cluster.

Round 4: Work 1 sc in each of the 3 escp of the first petal cluster, ch 3 (forms petal tip arch), sc in top loop of center escp of same cluster, ch 3. Rep for each of the 5 petal clusters around. Sl st to first sc to join. (5 petal arches, 15 sc, 10 ch-3 sps)

Fasten off CC.

Granny Square Border

This turns the round daisy into a square.

Join MC with standing sc in any ch-3 petal arch space.

Round 5: (Sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) into each of the 5 petal arch ch-3 spaces around. Sl st to first sc. (5 petal shells, 35 sts)

Round 6: Ch 3, treat the motif as a square with 4 corners. At each corner petal shell, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the top center dc. Along each edge between corners, work dc across all intervening sts and ch-sps. Adjust to have approximately 7 dc per side between corner ch-2 sps. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (4 corner ch-2 sps, approximately 7 dc per side)

Round 7: Sl st to corner ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same corner sp, dc in each dc across to next corner ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner sp. Rep around all 4 corners. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. (4 corners, 11 dc per side between corners)

Round 8: Sl st to corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner sp, sc in each dc across to next corner. Rep around all 4 sides. Sl st to first sc to join. (4 corners with ch-2 sps, 13 sc per side)

Fasten off MC. Weave in ends. Block square to 5.5 inches square using pins and a damp cloth.

Make all 4 squares before moving on.

Section 4: Handle

With MC and H-8 hook.

Ch 81.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (80 sc)

Rows 2 through 6: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (80 sc each row)

At end of Row 6, do not fasten off.

Fold the strip in half lengthwise so the long edges meet. Working through both layers, sl st the long open edge together to form a tube. Fasten off, leaving a 24-inch tail.

The handle should measure about 20 inches long, giving a loop height of roughly 5 inches above the bag opening.

Handle Attachment

Locate your handle markers from Round 39. Pin one end of the handle to each marker location, with about 1 inch of overlap on the inside of the bag.

Using the tail and tapestry needle, whipstitch each handle end securely to the inside top of the bag wall. Pass through at least 3 times in each direction for strength. Weave in ends.

Section 5: Tassel Charm and Decorative Flower

Tassel Charm

Cut 20 strands of MC and 10 strands of CC, each 10 inches long.

Cut one strand of MC approximately 18 inches long for the cord.

Fold the cord strand in half. Add 3 wooden beads onto the folded cord. Tie an overhand knot below the beads. Braid or twist the two cord strands together above the beads for approximately 3 inches.

Gather all cut strands into a bundle. Fold the bundle in half. Loop the folded end through the cord loop and pull cut ends through (lark’s head knot). Wrap a separate strand of MC tightly around the bundle about ¾ inch below the fold. Knot and trim. Trim tassel skirt to approximately 3 inches.

Decorative Crochet Flower

With MC and G-6 hook.

Round 1: MR, ch 1, work 6 sc into ring, sl st to first sc to join. (6 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join. (12 sc)

Round 3: (Ch 3, sk 1 st, sl st in next st) 6 times around. (6 ch-3 petal loops)

Round 4: (Sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) into each ch-3 petal loop around. Sl st to first sc to join. (6 petals)

Fasten off with a 12-inch tail. Sew the flower to the top of the tassel cord above the beads.

Attach the assembled charm to the handle at the right-side attachment point by looping and tying securely.

Section 6: Attaching Daisy Squares

Block all 4 squares to 5.5 inches square.

Lay the bag flat. On the front face, pin 2 squares side by side with their top edges sitting 1 inch below the bag opening and bottom edges approximately 3 inches above the base fold. Center them horizontally, leaving about 0.5 inches from the side folds.

Repeat on the back face with the remaining 2 squares.

Using MC and tapestry needle, whipstitch each square around all 4 edges, catching both the square border and the bag body stitches. At the center seam where two squares meet, whipstitch them to each other as well.

Section 7: Fabric Lining

Cut two fabric rectangles: 13.5 inches wide by 12 inches tall.

Cut one fabric circle: 9.5 inches diameter.

With right sides together, sew the rectangles along both short edges with 0.5-inch seam allowance. Press seams open.

Pin the circle to the bottom of the tube, right sides together. Clip the circle edge every ½ inch to ease the curve. Sew with 0.5-inch seam allowance. Trim and press.

Fold the top edge down 1 inch to the wrong side and press.

Insert lining into bag with wrong side facing the inside wall. Align seams with the bag’s side folds. The folded top edge should sit about ½ inch below the bag opening.

Slip stitch the lining to the inside top of the bag body all the way around.

Size Customization Tips

Want it wider? Add repeats of 8 sc to the base (one more increase round). Every 8 stitches adds about 0.75 inches to the width. Scale your daisy squares to match.

Need more height? Add extra plain sc rounds between Rounds 12 and 38. Every 4 rounds adds roughly 1 inch of height.

Switching to DK weight with a G-6 hook? The bag comes out about 10 percent smaller. Recalculate your lining dimensions.

Finishing and Care

Weave in all ends through at least 4 stitches in alternating directions.

Block the finished bag by lightly dampening it and shaping over a rounded form like a bowl or crumpled towel. Pat the daisy squares flat. Let dry completely.

Care: Machine wash gentle cycle in cool water inside a mesh bag. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. Remove wooden beads before washing or hand wash only.

You Just Made Sunshine You Can Carry

This mustard yellow daisy tote turns out so cheerful every single time. The structured body, those bold daisy panels, and the little tassel charm all come together into something you’ll actually reach for every day.

I hope you love making yours as much as I loved designing it. Tag your finished bags so I can see the sunshine you created. Happy crocheting!