Blue Forget-Me-Not Mesh Bag Free Crochet Pattern

I’ve been searching for the perfect airy summer bag, and this powder-blue mesh number with its heart-shaped forget-me-not flowers stopped me cold. The open stitch works up faster than you’d expect, and those tiny appliqued blooms turn a practical tote into something that feels like it stepped out of a cottage garden. Ready to make one? Let’s dig in.

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About This Crochet Bag Pattern

This roomy shoulder bag starts with a solid single-crochet base for structure, then shifts into an open mesh body worked in the round from the bottom up. The real showstopper is the heart-shaped garland of forget-me-not flowers and leaves you sew onto both the front and back panels.

Skill level sits comfortably at intermediate. You keep track of stitch counts across many rounds and work small, tight appliques, but nothing here feels complicated once the techniques click.

Expect 12 to 18 hours total, including flower construction and assembly. Finished dimensions land around 14 inches wide by 11 inches tall, with a strap measuring roughly 22 inches from top edge to top edge. In metric that’s about 35.5 cm by 28 cm with a 56 cm strap.

The pale powder blue creates a soft romantic backdrop that makes those sweet little flowers pop. Cottage-core vibes meet everyday practicality. Perfect for the farmer’s market, the beach, or just running errands without looking basic.

Materials You’ll Need

Grab these supplies and you’re set:

Yarn (Main Color, MC): Approximately 400 yards of DK weight cotton or cotton-blend in pale powder blue
Yarn (Flower Color, FC): Approximately 60 yards of the same pale powder blue
Yarn (Center Color, CC1): Approximately 15 yards of white or off-white
Yarn (Center Accent, CC2): Approximately 10 yards of soft yellow
Yarn (Leaf Color, LC): Approximately 40 yards of sage or medium green
Hooks: US size E-4 / 3.5 mm for the mesh body and strap; US size D-3 / 3.25 mm for flowers and leaves
Notions: Tapestry needle, scissors, pins for applique placement, stitch markers

Yarn Suggestions

Paintbox Yarns Simply DK delivers a smooth, firm twist that defines the mesh squares beautifully and holds its shape after blocking. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton DK brings a subtle mercerized sheen that elevates both the bag and the delicate appliques. Scheepjes Catona (used doubled for DK weight) offers an extensive color range so you can match that exact powder blue and sage green.

Choose any DK weight cotton or cotton-linen blend with a recommended gauge of 22 stitches per 4 inches. Skip acrylic for this project. Cotton’s natural stiffness and weight keep the mesh from collapsing. FYI, the difference really shows once the bag is finished and blocked.

Gauge

With the E-4 / 3.5 mm hook and main color in the mesh pattern:

4 mesh units = approximately 2.75 inches / 7 cm wide

5 mesh rows = approximately 2 inches / 5 cm tall

For solid single crochet sections:

18 sc x 22 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm square

Take time to check your gauge. The bag’s final dimensions depend entirely on consistent mesh tension. If your mesh units run larger than stated, drop one hook size. If they come out smaller, go up one size. A quick swatch now saves tears later.

Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

Here’s the short list so you can reference it easily:

ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
sk = skip
sp = space
ch-sp = chain space
st/sts = stitch/stitches
pm = place marker
MR = magic ring
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
rep = repeat
rnd = round

Special Stitches

Mesh Unit: Chain 2, skip 2 stitches (or skip the next ch-2 space in later rounds), single crochet in the next stitch. Count each complete unit as one for pattern purposes.

Picot: Chain 3, slip stitch in the first chain made. Used on the optional leaf edging.

That’s all you need. Simple tools for a pretty result.

Pattern Instructions

Time to pick up the hook. Work through these parts in order and you’ll have a finished bag before you know it.

Part 1: Base

The base forms a rounded rectangle roughly 10 inches long by 4 inches wide.

With main color and the 3.5 mm hook, chain 35.

Row 1 (RS): Starting in the 2nd chain from the hook, sc in each chain across. Turn. (34 sc)

Rows 2 through 8 (and beyond): Ch 1, sc in each stitch across. Turn. Continue plain sc rows until the base measures 4 inches from the starting chain—usually around 22 rows depending on your gauge.

Do not fasten off. Checkpoint: your base rectangle should measure approximately 10 inches long by 4 inches wide.

Part 2: Body Setup Rounds

Without turning, begin working around the entire perimeter of the base to form a tube.

Round 1 (Setup): Work 34 sc across the top edge of the last row, 2 sc in the corner, 22 sc evenly along the long side edge (one sc per row end), 2 sc in the corner, 34 sc across the bottom starting chain edge, 2 sc in the corner, 22 sc along the remaining long side, 2 sc in the last corner. Join with slip stitch to the first sc. (120 sc) Place a marker at the beginning of the round.

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join with slip stitch. (120 sc)

Checkpoint: After Round 2 you have a solid sc tube sitting on the flat base. The perimeter should measure about 26 to 27 inches when laid flat.

Part 3: Mesh Body

Here’s where the magic happens. Each mesh unit consists of one single crochet plus a ch-2 space. With 120 stitches you create 40 mesh units per round.

Round 3 (First Mesh Round): Ch 3 (counts as sc, ch 2). Skip next 2 stitches. *Sc in next stitch, ch 2, skip next 2 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join with slip stitch to the first sc. (40 mesh units)

Round 4: Slip stitch into the first ch-2 space. Ch 3 (counts as sc, ch 2). Sc in next ch-2 space. *Ch 2, sc in next ch-2 space. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 2. Join. (40 mesh units)

Rounds 5 through 28: Repeat Round 4. (40 mesh units each round)

Don’t panic if the mesh looks a bit wonky at first. It evens out beautifully with blocking. Checkpoint: After Round 28 the mesh body should measure approximately 10 inches tall from the base join.

Part 4: Top Edge Finishing

Round 29: Slip stitch into a ch-2 space. Ch 1. *Sc in the sc anchor, sc in the ch-2 space, sc in the same ch-2 space. Repeat from * around. Join. (120 sc)

Round 30: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Join. Fasten off and weave in the end.

Checkpoint: The top edge should sit clean, firm, and lie flat without curling.

Part 5: Strap

The strap picks up from the top opening and works in solid single crochet rows.

Identify the center back top edge. Count 10 stitches to the left of center and place a marker. Count 10 stitches to the right and place a second marker.

Row 1 (Strap): With right side facing and the 3.5 mm hook, join main color with a slip stitch in the left marker stitch. Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch and in each of the next 9 stitches. Turn. (10 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each stitch across. Turn. (10 sc)

Continue working Row 2 until the strap measures approximately 22 inches from the attachment point—roughly 100 rows.

Do not fasten off. Hold the strap end against the front top edge of the bag, aligned with the 10 stitches directly opposite. Work slip stitches through both layers across all 10 stitches to attach. Fasten off. Reinforce both strap attachments by sewing through both layers several times with a tapestry needle and main color.

Part 6: Forget-Me-Not Flower Appliques

Make 18 flowers total. These little blooms become surprisingly meditative once you settle into the rhythm.

With the 3.25 mm hook and flower color, make a magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 1. Work 5 sc into the magic ring. Pull the ring closed. Join with slip stitch to the first sc. (5 sc)

Round 2 (Petals): *Ch 2, treble crochet in the same stitch, ch 2, slip stitch in the next sc. Repeat from * four more times. (5 petals)

Fasten off flower color, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Round 3 (Center accent): Join white in the center of the magic ring with a slip stitch. Ch 1. Work 5 sc tightly into the center of the ring. Join. Fasten off.

Round 4 (Yellow dot): Join soft yellow in the center. Work a single slip stitch to anchor, then work 3 sc tightly in a cluster at the very center. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends on each flower. Checkpoint: Each finished flower should measure approximately 1 inch in diameter.

Part 7: Leaf Appliques

Make 14 leaves total.

With the 3.25 mm hook and leaf color, chain 8.

Row 1: Starting in the 2nd chain from the hook, sc in next chain, hdc in next chain, dc in next 2 chains, hdc in next chain, sc in next chain. Work 3 sc in the last chain (tip of the leaf). Now work back along the other side of the foundation chain: sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next, sc in next. Join with slip stitch to the first sc. (17 sts around)

Optional edging: Ch 1, sc evenly around the leaf perimeter, working a picot (ch 3, slip stitch in first chain) at the tip. Join and fasten off.

The finished leaf should measure approximately 1.5 inches long by 0.75 inch wide.

Part 8: Assembly and Applique Placement

The garland forms a heart outline roughly 7 inches wide at its widest and 6 inches tall, centered on each panel.

Lay the bag flat and use pins to mark the center of the front panel.
Pin flowers and leaves around the heart outline. The top has two rounded lobes formed by 4 to 5 flowers each. The bottom V point forms with 1 to 2 flowers meeting at the center base.
Place leaves between and behind flowers throughout, with tips pointing outward.
Use a tapestry needle and matching yarn to sew each piece to the bag surface with small whipstitches.
Repeat for the back panel if you want both sides decorated.
Optionally embroider a simple stem line using leaf color in chain stitch to connect the garland.

Take your time with placement. Stepping back every few flowers keeps the heart looking balanced instead of lopsided.

Finishing and Blocking

Weave in all remaining yarn ends. No one wants a surprise loose thread later.

Wet block by submerging the bag in cool water, pressing out excess water (never wring), and reshaping it to the final dimensions on a flat surface. Pin into shape if needed. Allow it to dry completely—cotton can take a full 24 hours.

Blocking opens the mesh squares, firms the base, and flattens the appliques so they lie smooth. The transformation is dramatic. IMO this step is non-negotiable if you want the bag looking its polished best.

Size Customization Tips

For a smaller bag (about 10 inches wide): Start with a chain of 25 instead of 35. After working around the base perimeter you’ll have approximately 90 stitches for 30 mesh units.

For a larger market bag (about 16 inches wide): Start with a chain of 43. After perimeter setup you’ll have approximately 144 stitches for 48 mesh units.

To adjust the strap: Each additional 5 rows adds approximately 1 inch of length. A narrower strap (6 stitches) feels more comfortable for lighter loads, while a wider strap (12 stitches) distributes weight better when you’re hauling heavier items.

Play with the numbers. The structure stays the same no matter the size.

Care Instructions

Machine wash on the gentle cycle or hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Avoid hot water with cotton—it can cause shrinkage. Lay flat to dry. Skip the tumble dryer entirely. If ironing is needed, use a pressing cloth and low steam setting, and keep the iron away from the flower appliques.

Treat it gently and this bag will happily accompany you through seasons of markets, beach days, and everyday adventures.

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FAQ

Can a confident beginner handle this pattern?

If you already know single crochet, chains, and working in the round, you can do it. The appliques require a bit of patience, but the stitches themselves stay basic. Take the first few flowers slowly and the rest will fly.

Why does my mesh look uneven right now?

That’s normal before blocking. Consistent tension helps, but wet blocking is the real equalizer. Most of those little wiggles disappear once the cotton dries in shape.

Do I really need flowers on both sides?

Not at all. One side looks charming and saves time. Both sides make the bag fully reversible and extra special. Choose what fits your patience level.

Can I substitute acrylic yarn?

I strongly recommend against it. Cotton’s natural stiffness and weight keep the mesh from sagging. Acrylic tends to stretch out and lose definition over time. Stick with cotton or a cotton blend for the best long-term results.

How many flowers does the heart actually need?

Eighteen total (for both sides) creates a full, balanced look. You can scale it down for a simpler design, but the denser arrangement is what makes the heart really sing.

Will the strap hold up under heavier loads?

At 10 stitches wide it’s solid for everyday use. If you plan to haul heavier groceries, go up to 12 stitches for better weight distribution. Always reinforce the attachment points with extra sewing either way.

Conclusion

There you have it—a breezy mesh bag that feels as good to carry as it does to make. The combination of open texture and those delicate forget-me-nots is hard to beat. Once you finish one, you might already be planning a second in a different color. Grab your hook, choose a soft blue, and enjoy every stitch. Happy crocheting!