Gray Koala Baby Set Free Crochet Pattern

Meet the cutest three-piece newborn set you will crochet this year. It has a koala-ear beanie with two fluffy pom-poms, a snug diaper cover with a button on the front, and fold-over cuff booties. Every piece uses just single crochet and slip stitches. You can finish the whole set in about four to six hours.

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Why You Will Love This Koala Set

Can you chain, single crochet, and work in the round? Then you already know enough to make this set. The mix of charcoal and light gray looks modern, and the big pom-poms give the beanie that sweet koala-ear look.

I picked simple stitches on purpose. Once you finish the beanie, the diaper cover and booties feel like old friends. The pieces match each other without looking like a uniform.

The two-tone gray palette works for any baby, and it looks great in photos. Parents love gifts like this one, and newborn photographers do too. The ribbed brim and the folded waistband add texture, but neither one needs fancy skills.

Skill level: Easy to intermediate. Each piece is beginner friendly, but juggling three projects and learning the ribbed brim moves it up a notch.

Time needed: About four to six hours in total.

• Beanie: 1.5 to 2 hours, including the pom-poms
• Diaper cover: 1.5 to 2 hours
• Booties (the pair): 1 to 1.5 hours

Finished Sizes

All three pieces fit newborn to 0-3 months.

• Beanie: about 13 inches (33 cm) around and 6 inches (15 cm) tall, not counting the pom-poms
• Diaper cover: about 14 inches (35.5 cm) around the waist when relaxed and 7 inches (18 cm) tall. It fits babies of roughly 8 to 12 pounds (3.6 to 5.4 kg).
• Booties: about 3.5 inches (9 cm) long on the sole

Supplies, Gauge and Stitch Guide

Pull everything together before you start. Digging for scissors with a half-finished beanie on your hook is no fun.

What You Need

• Color A: Light gray, about 120 yards (110 meters), worsted weight (category 4)
• Color B: Charcoal gray (dark gray), about 150 yards (137 meters), worsted weight (category 4)
• Small amount of white or off-white yarn for the tiny pom-pom tips
• Hook: US size J / 6.0 mm
• Stitch markers: 3
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors
• 1 wooden button, about 3/4 inch (19 mm) wide
• Sewing needle and thread that match Color B
• Cardboard or a pom-pom maker for two large pom-poms, each about 2 inches (5 cm) wide

Yarn Picks

Lion Brand Pound of Love in Taupe and Charcoal works great here. Caron Simply Soft in a light gray and in Charcoal is another budget-friendly choice.

Any smooth worsted yarn that matches the gauge will do. Skip fuzzy or bumpy yarns, because you need to see your stitches clearly.

Gauge

14 sc and 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet worked in the round with a US J / 6.0 mm hook.

Please check your gauge first. If your fabric feels tight, go up one hook size. If it feels loose, go down one hook size. Good gauge helps all three pieces fit a newborn the right way.

Abbreviations

• blo (back loop only): Put your hook through just the back loop of the stitch instead of both loops
• ch (chain): Yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook
• dc (double crochet): Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through. Then yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over again, and pull through the last two loops.
• flo (front loop only): Put your hook through just the front loop of the stitch
• inc (increase): Work two sc in the same stitch, which turns one stitch into two
• inv-dec (invisible decrease): Insert hook through the front loop of the next stitch, then through the front loop of the stitch after it. Yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, and pull through the two loops on your hook.
• rep (repeat): Do the steps again as written
• rnd (round): One full trip around your work
• sc (single crochet): Insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, and pull through both loops
• sc2tog (single crochet two together): A decrease that joins two stitches into one
• sk (skip): Pass over the stitch without working in it
• sl st (slip stitch): Insert hook, yarn over, and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook in one move
• sp (space): The gap between stitches
• st/sts (stitch/stitches): The loops that make up your work
• yo (yarn over): Wrap the yarn around your hook from back to front

Ribbed Single Crochet

This trick creates the stretchy, textured brim and waistband.

1. At the start of each row, ch 1. This chain does not count as a stitch.
2. Sc in the back loop only of each stitch across the row.
3. At the end of the row, turn your work.

Working in the back loop on every row builds horizontal ridges that look like knit ribbing. It looks impressive, yet it takes no advanced skills.

Adjustable Magic Ring

The magic ring gives you a tightly closed center when you work in the round.

1. Wrap the yarn around your fingers to make a loop. Let the tail end cross over the working yarn.
2. Put your hook through the loop, catch the working yarn, and pull it through.
3. Ch 1 to lock it in, then work the number of stitches the pattern asks for into the ring.
4. Pull the tail firmly to close the ring all the way.

If the magic ring feels tricky, try this swap: ch 2, then work your first round of stitches into the second chain from the hook.

Pattern Notes

1. Work every piece in continuous rounds unless the pattern says otherwise. Mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker and move it up as you go.
2. To switch colors on the beanie, pull the last yarn over of the final slip stitch through with the new color. Then drop the old color and keep going.
3. Stitch counts appear in parentheses at the end of each row or round.
4. Work the diaper cover from the bottom up in joined rounds. Then make the waistband as a flat ribbed strip and attach it to the top edge.
5. The wooden button is just for looks. The diaper cover slips on like shorts and does not open or close.
6. Make the pom-poms separately and sew them to the beanie after blocking.
7. Lightly mist every piece with water and shape it to the stated measurements before you put the set together.

The Double Pom-Pom Beanie

You crochet the beanie from the top down in continuous rounds. Use Color A (light gray) for the body and Color B (charcoal) for the ribbed brim.

Beanie Body

Foundation: With Color A and a US J / 6.0 mm hook, make a magic ring.

Round 1: Work 6 sc into the ring and pull it closed. Do not join. Put a marker in the first stitch. (6 sc)

Round 2: Inc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next st) rep 6 times. (18 sc)

Round 4: (Inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) rep 6 times. (24 sc)

Round 5: (Inc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) rep 6 times. (30 sc)

Round 6: (Inc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) rep 6 times. (36 sc)

Round 7: (Inc in next st, sc in next 5 sts) rep 6 times. (42 sc)

Round 8: (Inc in next st, sc in next 6 sts) rep 6 times. (48 sc)

Checkpoint: After Round 8, your flat circle should measure about 5.5 inches (14 cm) across. If it is bigger, your stitches run loose. If it is smaller, they run tight.

Rounds 9 through 22: Sc in each stitch around. Work these 14 rounds with no increases or decreases. (48 sc each round)

Checkpoint: After Round 22, the body should measure about 5.5 inches (14 cm) from the crown to the edge.

Do not fasten off. Let Color A rest on the inside of the work.

Beanie Brim

You make the brim as a flat ribbed strip and attach it to the bottom edge of the body as you go.

With Color B, join with a standing sc in any stitch along the bottom edge of the beanie body.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 8. Sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. (7 sc) Sl st into the next stitch on the beanie edge to attach the brim. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc in the blo of each stitch across, working back toward the beanie. (7 sc) Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1. Sc in the blo of each stitch across. (7 sc) Sl st into the next stitch on the beanie edge. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 in turn until you have worked one attaching sl st into every stitch around the bottom edge. That makes 48 sl st attachments and 96 rows of ribbing in all.

After the last row, fold the brim so the first and last short edges meet. Join them with sl st or whipstitch using Color B. Fasten off Color B and weave in all ends.

Pom-Poms (Make 2)

Cut a piece of cardboard 2 inches (5 cm) wide, or set your pom-pom maker to 2 inches (5 cm).

Wrap Color A around the cardboard about 80 to 100 times. Slide a separate 12-inch (30 cm) piece of yarn through the middle of the bundle and tie it tight with a double knot. Do not cut this tie strand, because you need it to attach the pom-pom later.

Cut through all the loops on both sides of the cardboard. Trim the pom-pom into a round shape about 2 inches (5 cm) wide.

Now make the white tip. Use a little white or off-white yarn to wrap a tiny pom-pom about 0.75 inch (2 cm) wide. Tie it off, trim it, and anchor it to the center top of the big gray pom-pom. Cute, right?

Attaching the Pom-Poms

Place the pom-poms on top of the beanie, about 2 inches (5 cm) apart, with one on each side of the crown. Thread each tie strand onto your yarn needle and push it down through the crown. Tie it tightly on the inside and weave in the ends.

The Diaper Cover

You work the diaper cover in Color B (charcoal gray) from the bottom up in joined rounds. Think of it as two little tubes that become one pair of shorts.

First Leg

With Color B, ch 24. Keep the chain flat and untwisted, then sl st to the first chain to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each chain around. Sl st to the first sc to join. (24 sc)

Rounds 2 through 4: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Sl st to the first sc to join. (24 sc each round)

Fasten off and leave a 6-inch (15 cm) tail for joining. Set this leg aside.

Second Leg

Work the same steps as the First Leg, but do not fasten off after Round 4.

Joining the Legs

Joining Round: Keep your working yarn on the Second Leg and ch 3. Insert your hook into any stitch on the First Leg. Sc around the First Leg ring for 24 sc. Then sc across the 3 chains (3 sc). Next, sc around the Second Leg ring, working the remaining stitches. Finish by working sc across the other side of the 3-chain bridge (3 sc). Place a marker in the first stitch. Do not join at the end of this round. Switch to continuous rounds from here. (54 sc)

Body Rounds 1 through 12: Sc in each stitch around. (54 sc each round)

Waistband Setup

At the end of the last body round, sl st to close. Do not fasten off.

Next Round: Work in flo only and sc in each stitch around. This makes a fold line for the waistband. Sl st to join. (54 sc)

Waistband Extension Rounds 1 and 2: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around. Sl st to join. (54 sc each round)

Fasten off Color B and leave a tail for weaving.

Waistband Ribbing Strip

With Color B, ch 8.

Row 1: Sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. (7 sc) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc in the blo of each stitch across. (7 sc) Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1. Sc in the blo of each stitch across. (7 sc) Turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the strip measures about 14 inches (35.5 cm) or fits snugly around the waistband extension. That takes about 50 to 52 rows in total.

Do not fasten off. Fold the strip in half lengthwise so the ribbed ridges run sideways. Line up one long edge of the strip with the top edge of the diaper cover.

Use your working yarn to sl st the folded strip to the top edge, working through the strip and the top-edge stitches at the same time. Then sl st the short ends of the strip together to close the waistband ring. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Adding the Button

Center the wooden button on the front of the folded waistband flap. Use a sewing needle and thread that matches Color B to sew it on through all the waistband layers. Make at least 8 passes through the button holes. FYI, a baby will test that button, so sew it on well.

The Fold-Over Cuff Booties

Make two booties in Color A (light gray). Each one takes a short while, and they are very hard to stop making.

Sole

With Color A, ch 8.

Round 1: Start in the second chain from the hook and sc 6. Then work 3 sc in the last chain (the toe end). Turn the piece to work along the other side of the foundation chain. Sc 5 in the next 5 chains, then work 2 sc in the first chain (the heel end). Place a marker in the first stitch. Do not join. (16 sc)

Round 2: Inc, sc in next 5 sts, inc 3 times (once in each of the 3 center toe sts), sc in next 5 sts, inc twice (once in each of the 2 heel sts). (22 sc)

Round 3: Sc in next st, inc, sc in next 5 sts, (sc in next st, inc) 3 times, sc in next 5 sts, (sc in next st, inc) twice. (28 sc)

Checkpoint: The sole should measure about 3.5 inches (9 cm) long and 1.75 inches (4.5 cm) wide.

Sides

Round 4: Work in the blo of each stitch and sc in each stitch around. This makes the fold line between the sole and the sides. (28 sc)

Rounds 5 and 6: Sc in each stitch around through both loops. (28 sc each round)

Toe Shaping

Round 7: Sc in the first 9 sts, inv-dec 5 times across the center 10 toe sts, then sc in the last 9 sts. (23 sc)

Round 8: Sc in the first 7 sts, inv-dec 4 times, then sc in the last 8 sts. (19 sc)

Round 9: Sc in the first 5 sts, inv-dec 3 times, then sc in the last 8 sts. (16 sc)

Ankle and Cuff

Rounds 10 through 13: Sc in each stitch around. (16 sc each round)

Rounds 14 through 17: Sc in each stitch around. These rounds make the cuff when you fold them down. (16 sc each round)

Sl st to the next stitch to close the round. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Fold Rounds 14 through 17 down toward the outside of the bootie to make the fold-over cuff.

Repeat all the bootie steps for the second bootie.

Finishing, Care and Sizing

You are almost done. A little blocking turns your set from homemade to polished.

Weaving in Ends

Weave in every yarn tail with your yarn needle. Run each tail in at least three different directions so it stays put.

Blocking

Dampen each piece with cool water and squeeze out the extra moisture in a towel. Shape each piece to the measurements above on a flat, padded surface.

For the beanie, lightly stuff a round balloon or a plastic bag with tissue and place it inside to hold the dome shape. Let everything dry fully, which takes about six to eight hours. Only then should you sew on the pom-poms or take out the shaping forms.

Washing and Care

Hand wash the set in cool water with a gentle baby wash. Do not wring or twist it. Press it between two towels to take out the water. Reshape each piece and let it dry flat, away from heat and direct sun.

If your yarn label says machine washable, a gentle cold cycle inside a mesh laundry bag works too. Never tumble dry, iron, or dry clean this set.

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Changing the Size

To size up to 3 to 6 months:

• Work 2 extra increase rounds on the beanie crown
• Add 3 extra even rounds to the beanie body
• Add 2 rounds to each diaper cover leg
• Add 6 rounds to the diaper cover body
• Start the bootie sole with a chain of 10

To size down for a premature baby:

• Work 1 fewer increase round on the beanie crown
• Make each diaper cover leg just 3 rounds
• Make the diaper cover body 9 rounds
• Start the bootie sole with a chain of 6

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Final Thoughts

This koala-inspired set is quick, sweet, and a lot of fun to make. IMO, it makes the perfect baby shower gift, because the pieces are small, soft, and full of charm. Whoever opens it will see how much love you stitched into every piece.

Thanks for picking this pattern from Sumara Patterns! Save it to your Pinterest board so you can find it again, and share it with your crochet friends. If you make the set, leave a comment and tell us how it went. Happy crocheting!